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the banaras i saw ... in poems

  • ameetpai
  • Oct 9, 2024
  • 2 min read

Updated: 6 days ago

its been many years now since that trip to banaras. i remember going there without any expectations, without any internet researches ... only an open mind

and there were some deeply interesting experiences that have stayed with me ... i took the pen and paper to scribe the memories, but they just flowed out as poems & illustrations.. i am happier to remember them in this form

(banaras is also known as kashi or varanasi )


set of poems on banaras

*Kumar here refers to the name by which the Indian singer Kumar Gandharv was often referred to. I had heard very little indian classical until this time and only a few Kumar Gandharv songs – not that I was averse, probably the time hadn't come.

By some strange reason I started listening to him from day 1 at banaras. As I was spending time alone, this music was practically the background for my whole experience of banaras.


Kumar ji’s singing moves me deeply. It’s the most played in the studio. It’s one of the benchmarks for me in my own work. He has composed and sung a large collection of Kabir’s nirgun (formless) songs. Kabir – I realised later – lived in banaras, at a different point in time from when those songs were sung, to when I was walking those same streets.

The music ran throughout, right until the last day when I got carried away and played it in a rental car whose driver found it soporific and asked me to stop it.


One evening on the banks of the river I felt so overwhelmed by it, that this metaphorical purge made a physical dip irrelevant





Set of poems on Banaras, Varanasi. Poem on Gamcha – a head scarf worn in banaras. 1st part of the poem – wrap it over your head, as protection from the sun, style it as a scarf, make some hearts burn...


*A small temple, runs on donations, makes khichdi – a simple meal that is a vegetable and rice goop – and serves thousands of people everyday since many years for free



evening at the banaras varanasi ghats


*my favourite ghat (ghat - series of steps leading to the river Ganga in Banaras)


Set of poems on Banaras, Varanasi. Poem about the man who fed the fish. 1st part of the poem - it's been many years, he has met them everyday, every evening he came quietly, same place, and time of day…


Set of poems on Banaras, Varanasi. Poem about the Solitary priest. 1st part of the poem – what a spectacle to behold, the evening prayers in banaras, crowds slowly swarming towards, a popular hive on the banks, on offer are some special places, if you have the right friends…

*Dashashwamedh ghat – the pomp & glory of Banaras prayers.

Raja ghat – the bare essence of it


Set of poems on Banaras, Varanasi. Poem titled that big city from where I am. 1st part of the poem – 'be careful', i was warned, there are many a cunning folks in banaras,, thankfully i ran into individuals, and not my own fears…


man who makes lassi in banaras varanasi


 
 
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© ameet pai 2025

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